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Old Apr 19, 2010, 10:20pm   #101
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http://db.chessmetrics.com/

Oh and I play chess from time to time, but not much since the last 5 years, but I still like to follow the games in the Super GM tournies
Dont miss Anand-Topalov starting on 23th April
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Old Apr 19, 2010, 10:28pm   #102
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Dont miss Anand-Topalov starting on 23th April
Ill be sure to go through them, also I'm hoping the winner can arrage a match against Carlsen but the way things go lately it will probably take 2 years.

And for anyone else new to chess you should definetly check out http://www.chessgames.com/

Learn the basics of the opening, access to a endless supply of GM games and they will have the newest games up shortly after each tourny is over.
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Old Apr 19, 2010, 10:40pm   #103
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Ill be sure to go through them, also I'm hoping the winner can arrage a match against Carlsen but the way things go lately it will probably take 2 years.

.
That wd be pretty sweet
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 11:17pm   #104
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A fun skittles game from playing at my club this evening. Opponent is about 1500 in scottish money, so 1600ish fide. I had white, and this is from memory, because it always impresses people when you can remember an entire game.

1. d4 d5 2. Nf3 Nf6 3. e3 e6 4. Bd3 c5 5. b3 Be7 6. Bb2 Nbd7 7. Nbd2 O-O
8. O-O Qc7 9. Ne5 cxd4 10. exd4 Nxe5 11. dxe5 Nd7 12. f4 Nc5 13. Be2 b6

He had a tactic here which I didn't see until after I'd moved; 13...Na4 is ugly, because 14.bxa4 Qb6+ 15.Kh1 Qxb2 and my queenside pawns are smashed.

14. Rc1 Bb7 15. Bd4 Nd7

Bd4 is an interesting move. Mostly I just don't want his d pawn coming forward even as a sacrifice because it opens his b7 bishop to fuck shit up in the centre and around my king. When he played Nd7 I expected Ba3 would follow and so played;

16. c3

to allow Rc2, keeping my rook on the file. But instead of Ba3 he played;

Bc5

which is fine, I'd love him to play Bxd4.

17. Bd3 Bxd4+ 18.cxd4 Qd8

This position is incredibly comfortable for white. His pieces have freedom whereas blacks are ugly. White has a very clear plan to attack the black king, he can bring his queen, knight, bishop and f rook into the attack easily whereas black has real difficulty getting his pieces to squares where they can defend. And so it begins;

19. Qh5 g6

Teasing a weakness, creating weak squares on f6 and h6.

20. Qh3 Rc8
21. Nf3 Re8

Since white is preparing Ng5, black must find a solution to Qxh7+. Black chooses to open the f8 square for his knight.

22. Bb5 Kg7

Bb5 pins the knight to the rook, and now another solution to Qxg7 must be found. Kg7 allows either h6 or Rh8.

23. Ng5 Rh8

White has threats all over the place, most importantly the sacrificial 24.Nxe6+ fxe6 25.Qxe6 Nf8 26.Qg4, creating extremely dangerous central pawns. This idea can be played either with or without initiating trades with Rxc8 or Bxd7 beforehand. Ultimately I decided that I wasn't getting enough compensation for the sacrificed material yet, and that there was really no need to try something like this when I had much better pieces and good pressure around my opponent's king, so I continued with the logical build up move;

24. Bd3

Natural square for the bishop, controls lots of squares, adds to the pressure around black's king and perhaps at some point f5 or Bxg6 will become viable - with such difficulty getting his pieces to useful defending squares on the kingside, black has to be very conscious of getting opened up by piece-for-two-pawns sacrifices.

24... Nb8

Hello...That knight's coming to c6 where it attacks the backwards d pawn, then on to b4 to fork my bishop and a pawn.

25. g4 Nc6

My knight has to retreat, then my bishop has to retreat (though it stays on the key diagonal) and then he's going to try to come in on the c file. I actually have some shit I have to take care of here, but I'm definately not ready to stop attacking. g4 begins a pawnstorm, I don't have to knock too many of his pawns out of the way before I have game ending threats.

26. Nf3 Nb4 27. Bb1

Both moves played instantly. I'm very short of time at this point, which is why I missed how useful 26.Qe3 would be as it defends both the d pawn and the c1 square allowing me to play Rxc8 followed by Rc1 and negate the dangers on the c file. Mostly, however, I'm just fucked if I'm going to start defending outright.

27...Qd7

I don't know what this move is meant to achieve, however I have just noticed that he has Ba6 scoring a tempo off the rook which moves to e1. Now he can dump his bishop on d3, perhaps he can then trade Bxb1 Rxb1 when the a pawn hangs, he can also use that as an opportunity to double rooks on the c file. Obviously I can't capture the bishop because Nxd3 would then fork my rooks and I would be forced to surrender the c file permanantly by playing Rxc8 (black plays Rxc8 ) and Rd1 to escape the hungry knight. I don't have time to calculate the implications of this, but intuitively this needs to be prevented.

28. Nd2 Ba6 29. Rfe1

Nd2 opens the queen to defend along the third rank, it also defends the bishop and the f1 square (Qf1+ could be extremely problematic in about 6 moves time) if he manages to find a way to trade off all the rooks on the c file and play Qc1+. If he does manage to get his queen into my position I'm pretty much fighting for a draw and hoping he blunders something anyway.

From this position, 29...Rxc1 looks unpleasant. 30.Rxc1 Rc8 and since I can't play Qf1 I have to play 31.Rc3 Rxc3 32.Qxc3 Qb4 with the threat of Qe2, so white must play 33.Qe2. This position is much easier for black to play quickly than it is for white, fortunately black did not see far enough to know how dangerous the position would be, and so played

Rc6

believing he had to double rooks and penetrate rather than simply exchange them. This gives white the one move he needs to stab black with the dagger he should have played on move 28.

30. f5

Threatening to open black up. The best continuation appears to be 30...exf5 31.gxf5 and now 32.f6+ would win because of 33.Qxd7, hence black must play 31...Kg8 trapping his rook in the corner and allowing white the room he needs to resolve the queenside and he will always have a big advantage on the kingside once he's finished. Black may also try 30...h6 which continues 31.f6+ Kh7 32.g5 h5 and now white has a big advantage because of the threat of Qxh5+ (the g pawn is pinned by the bishop on b1). The game may continue 33.a3 Rxc1 34.Rxc1 Rc8 35.Qxh5+ Kg8 36.Qh6 Rxc1+ 37.Kg2 Bf1+ 38.Kf2 Nd3+ 39.Bxd3, black is out of checks and powerless to prevent Qh7#

There is no response to f5 that isn't problematic for black, but the worst thing he can do is ignore it, which he did

30...Rhc8 31. f6+ Kg8 32.Qh6

black resigns.

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Old Apr 21, 2010, 2:55am   #105
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So, turns out I have the same problem I had starting poker. I make bad decisions quickly instead of thinking things through most of the time. Not sure if it's impatience or what.

I really need to slow down.
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Old Apr 21, 2010, 3:39am   #106
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So, turns out I have the same problem I had starting poker. I make bad decisions quickly instead of thinking things through most of the time. Not sure if it's impatience or what.

I really need to slow down.
When you see a good move, sit on your hands until you see a better one. In 90% of games between casual players, the one with more patience wins. That's about the best advice I can give anyone starting out.
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Old Apr 21, 2010, 10:43am   #107
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Uuuh u play the Colle, I hate it and another reason why I play the Stonewall. Do u score well with it? Grats to ur win ( I also was in chessclub the last evening but didnt play chess, the board of directors had to talk about some stuff going on in the club. It was pretty boring like usual and I totally hammered myself with Franziskaner Weissbier

When I find time I review the game and ur comments from my game ( I know Im late, sorry )
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Old Apr 21, 2010, 1:02pm   #108
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Uuuh u play the Colle, I hate it and another reason why I play the Stonewall.
stonewall is inferior to the zukertort colle imo. you get most of the benefits of the stonewall, without the fucked c1 bishop.

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Do u score well with it?
yes actually, it's very flexible, tough to get a bad middlegame. again, i'm probably going to have to drop it, or at least add something sharper to my repertoire if i take up serious iccf chess.

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Grats to ur win ( I also was in chessclub the last evening but didnt play chess, the board of directors had to talk about some stuff going on in the club. It was pretty boring like usual and I totally hammered myself with Franziskaner Weissbier
that seems standard. people who don't play serious chess don't understand how much drinking is involved. they never put two and two together and realise that this is why the russians dominated for so long.

chess club meetings are usually terrible. i recall a meeting about 10 years ago when the local league wanted to go from 6 board teams to 4 board teams (because one of the guys on the league executive was also the captain of a juniors team and you can stuff four kids into one car). it took my club 3 hours to determine that we had no opinion on the proposed change. the highlight was the club's top player ranting for 40 solid minutes about how stupid this idea was, during which time he somehow managed to drink 4 beers, though I don't recall him ever stopping talking. he then stormed out for some reason i can't recall, then stormed back in 5 minutes later having thought of some more reasons this was a bad idea and started ranting again.

there was also a meeting of the university chess club back when i used to play there, in which myself and a couple of friends decided to stage a coup d'etat. we succeeded in getting the most hopeless person we could think of elected as club president. unfortunately the putsch backfired, i stepped out for a smoke and when i came back in was told i was now first team captain, which meant i had to go to a bunch of league meetings

Kc
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Old Apr 21, 2010, 1:34pm   #109
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So, turns out I have the same problem I had starting poker. I make bad decisions quickly instead of thinking things through most of the time. Not sure if it's impatience or what.

I really need to slow down.
everyone is like this at the start, fortunately in chess you can't get ridiculously lucky the first few times you play and spend the next two years believing you're a good player who's running bad.

after your opponent moves, look at every piece on the board and check to see if it's undefended or inadequately defended. if you find undefended or inadequately defended pieces, look to see if they can be attacked. go through the same routine after you've chosen your move, before you click the send button.

thoughts about the opening;

firstly, as black, you should probably meet 1.e4 with 1...e5, and 1.d4 with 1...d5, these openings are much easier to muddle through based on solid opening principles than something like 1.e4 c5 is, the games will also be more instructive.

you have 3 basic aims in the opening (i) contest the centre, (ii) develop your pieces to their best squares and (iii) get your king safe.

king safety is achieved by castling, unless there is a very good reason to go the other way, castling kingside is preferable because he'll be less exposed there. the king on g1 is further away from the action than he would be on c1. he's also defending the pawn on h2, whereas a queenside castling leaves the a2 pawn undefended and gives your opponent one more way of coming in.

the centre is contested first by a central pawn, which should usually be defended with its neighbouring pawn; e4 is defended by d3, d4 is defended by e3. if you play d4 and e3, you can usually play c4 at some point too, but be cautious about using your f pawn to contest the centre, because you are opening lines against your king. also think about where you are going to put your bishops before playing d3 or e3, d3 blocks the f1 bishop in, e3 blocks the c1 bishop. you either need to get the bishop outside the pawn chain (eg by playing Bc4 in a 1.e4 opening before playing d3), or intend to fianchetto the bishop on the long diagonal (so in a 1.d4 system, you can play e3 before the c1 bishop has moved, if your intention is to play b3 and Bb2).

you want to develop your pieces as quickly and efficiently as possible, ideally each piece should only move once until everything is developed. it is essential therefore to develop pieces to their best (or at least good) squares. since knights have far fewer candidate squares than bishops, it's usually correct to develop the knights first. the g1 knight, for instance, is basically always going to f3, but the f1 bishop might be best on d3, c4 or b5, sometimes even e2 is its best square. you often won't know until a few moves have past which is the best square for the bishop, so develop the knight first.

in a similar vein, pawn moves are not developing moves. with the exception of the first move/s where you land your pawn/s in the centre, pawn moves cost you time. pawn moves are an aid to development, they allow pieces to be developed, but they are not developing moves themselves.

So, say you want to play the stonewall attack, with pawns on c3 d4 e3 and f4, knights on d2 and f3 (thence from f3 to e5) and the bishop on d3. The move order 1.d4 2.e3 3.Bd3 4.Nd2 5.f4 6.Nf3 7.Ne5 is much better than 1.d4 2.e3 3.c3 4.f4 5.Bd3 etc. Actually you can hold off playing c3 entirely until black plays c5 in that opening, the purpose of white playing c3 in that opening is to solve black's threat of c4 (and i prefer playing b3 as the solution to c4 personally - transposing to the colle zukertort attack - because you can then play Bb2 and sometimes Ba3, the c1 bishop is often difficult to get into the game in the stonewall proper).

questions?

Kc
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Old Apr 21, 2010, 4:36pm   #110
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Originally Posted by killcrazy View Post
everyone is like this at the start, fortunately in chess you can't get ridiculously lucky the first few times you play and spend the next two years believing you're a good player who's running bad.

after your opponent moves, look at every piece on the board and check to see if it's undefended or inadequately defended. if you find undefended or inadequately defended pieces, look to see if they can be attacked. go through the same routine after you've chosen your move, before you click the send button.

thoughts about the opening;

firstly, as black, you should probably meet 1.e4 with 1...e5, and 1.d4 with 1...d5, these openings are much easier to muddle through based on solid opening principles than something like 1.e4 c5 is, the games will also be more instructive.

So opening with a Sicilian as black I should avoid until I understand why I'm doing it? I think I open c5 Nf6 as black in a lot of games simply because I saw people doing it. But I guess I do anything else in the opening because I saw people doing it.

you have 3 basic aims in the opening (i) contest the centre, (ii) develop your pieces to their best squares and (iii) get your king safe.

king safety is achieved by castling, unless there is a very good reason to go the other way, castling kingside is preferable because he'll be less exposed there. the king on g1 is further away from the action than he would be on c1. he's also defending the pawn on h2, whereas a queenside castling leaves the a2 pawn undefended and gives your opponent one more way of coming in.

the centre is contested first by a central pawn, which should usually be defended with its neighbouring pawn; e4 is defended by d3, d4 is defended by e3. if you play d4 and e3, you can usually play c4 at some point too, but be cautious about using your f pawn to contest the centre, because you are opening lines against your king. also think about where you are going to put your bishops before playing d3 or e3, d3 blocks the f1 bishop in, e3 blocks the c1 bishop. you either need to get the bishop outside the pawn chain (eg by playing Bc4 in a 1.e4 opening before playing d3), or intend to fianchetto the bishop on the long diagonal (so in a 1.d4 system, you can play e3 before the c1 bishop has moved, if your intention is to play b3 and Bb2).

Is there an advantage to playing my bishop to an open diagonol on the king for a check? I've read having influence with pieces is best, and the center gets the best influence, but I've seen lots of people play something like kingside bishop to b5 only to get pushed back twice with pawn advances.

you want to develop your pieces as quickly and efficiently as possible, ideally each piece should only move once until everything is developed. it is essential therefore to develop pieces to their best (or at least good) squares. since knights have far fewer candidate squares than bishops, it's usually correct to develop the knights first. the g1 knight, for instance, is basically always going to f3, but the f1 bishop might be best on d3, c4 or b5, sometimes even e2 is its best square. you often won't know until a few moves have past which is the best square for the bishop, so develop the knight first.

in a similar vein, pawn moves are not developing moves. with the exception of the first move/s where you land your pawn/s in the centre, pawn moves cost you time. pawn moves are an aid to development, they allow pieces to be developed, but they are not developing moves themselves.

So, say you want to play the stonewall attack, with pawns on c3 d4 e3 and f4, knights on d2 and f3 (thence from f3 to e5) and the bishop on d3. The move order 1.d4 2.e3 3.Bd3 4.Nd2 5.f4 6.Nf3 7.Ne5 is much better than 1.d4 2.e3 3.c3 4.f4 5.Bd3 etc. Actually you can hold off playing c3 entirely until black plays c5 in that opening, the purpose of white playing c3 in that opening is to solve black's threat of c4 (and i prefer playing b3 as the solution to c4 personally - transposing to the colle zukertort attack - because you can then play Bb2 and sometimes Ba3, the c1 bishop is often difficult to get into the game in the stonewall proper).
Makes sense.
questions?

Kc

So as white your opening should push your advantage, and as black you should aim to equalize? But why do I see tons of black players play a a6 or h6 as part of the opening. Are they just bad or does this accomplish something?
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